Advanced Strategy in the Fencing Sport

Fencing strategy includes thinking two to three moves in advance and trying to lead the game. Leading means that you are more in charge of the opponent’s movements due to advanced skill. This is not easy when matched with a comparable opponent who is also trying to lead the game. When both have strategic approaches it can become a game of strike and counterstrike. 

Strategy includes the sequencing of moves for maximum effect to produce a successful strike.  This may include something like a beat, a feint, change of engagement and then strike. To put this in English it would mean to strike the opponents mid section of blade to claim right-of- way, make a small movement forward to draw the opponent’s parry, swinging under the blade to change the line of the attack and then moving for the strike. 

In such a move the opponent will react in one direction but the attack is coming from the other. Such movements must be pulled off with lightning strikes because delay could mean the opponent could adjust and counter parry. This speed and surety can only come through practice and completing the sequence over and over until it is ingrained. 

The more complex moves a person learns the more they can lead the bout. These movements should not be learned until the basics of footwork and swordplay are mastered and automatic. Similar complex movements can be learned in counter attacks and defense. As one progresses in the sport they will find their complex moves create advantages.

The Parts of the Foil

Fencing has been part of society since the 12^th century and made its way from the original Greek Olympics to modern Olympics.  The foil is the most common fencing sword in the sport and is generally the first to be learned. Learning foil offers the development of basic style, skill, and game mechanics that are unlikely to come from saber or epee. Knowing the parts of the foil is important for grasping how it becomes an extension of one’s body.

The foil is made of light steel between 350g and 500g. The length cannot be longer than 90cm. I have both a 350g and a 500g blade (1). There are significant differences in the weight and strength. At 500g your movement is likely to be mooted as the weight slows down a quick reaction. It does afford the ability to overpower your opponent in parry and riposte but you are unlikely to be nimble enough to counter a skilled opponent’s moves. Furthermore, a heavy blade will fatigue your arms in long bouts and give your opponent an advantage. 

The blade is made from low-carbon steel which allows it to bend upon striking its opponent. Due to the potential injuries associated with the use of metal equipment a mask and protective suit is worn. Even with this equipment fencing can leave some nasty bruises caused during the heat of the game. Blades can get broken and egos can get damaged. A solid piece of wisdom is to never turn your back on your opponent because you never know when someone will strike you in the back-as terrible as it sounds....it happens. 

Parts of the Foil

Pommel: Fastens the foil together.

Grip: Comes in pistol or French.

Bell Guard: Protects the hands.

Forte (Strong): Heavy part of blade.

Medium: Medium part of the blade.

Blade: The entire blade (90 cm).

Foible (Weak): Bendable part of blade.

Button: The protective tip on the foil.

Other Reading:

 High school Fencing Guide

Explanation of Fencing Swords

Introducing the Fencing Flick

The fencing flick is a move that would likely make the traditionalists cringe when seeing it in tournament. The action is so quick fencers have a hard time formulating a proper defense. It is not generally taught at the college level under traditional curriculum and came into existence after the invention of the electronic fencing sword. Because it is not widely known or taught it can be a powerful tool to overcoming an opponent’s defenses. 

The flick occurs when an attacker moves his arm and foil to hit his opponent but just before full extension flicks his wrist making the blade swish. Since the foil is long and slim it has the ability of bend and creating a wrapping action. This fly fishing motion causes the tip to bend allowing it to hit the opponent on the back or shoulder. Such an attack may also work on the front but is most commonly as a way of throwing your opponent out of balance. 

The defense against a flick often includes using a modified sabre quinte (90 degrees from the axis of the body) and a ducking motion. The other method includes a parry 10 which is exercised moving the blade so that it runs just above your shoulder to the point behind the head to deflect the attack. Immediately the fencer should swirl the sword to try and obtain a strike on your opponent to create a fluid defense and attack motion. 

Another method of countering the flick is to close the gap of distance between you and the opponent. When this gap is narrowed the opponent’s tip of the blade will be off target allowing for a possible strike of the opponents body. Such a move comes with a price. Once you are close to your opponent and miss your initial attack there will be a furry of effort in order to strike each other. This madness of motion can be a frenzy of attack and parry that speeds up the game. 

The flick is considered an intermediary move that should be learned after the basics have been mastered. Traditional instructors do not have any particular fondness for the flick as it doesn’t fit within the historical context of fencing. 

In true life it would not likely cause much damage as the point of the blade is more like a touch than a stab. However, it does count in the sport of fencing as the right-of-way is claimed once the arm moves forward and the opponent is forced to parry. It takes practice and the right equipment to do the flick well. Some foil blades have additional flexibility that isn’t found in heavy steel.