The first thing you notice as you pull up with your coffee and gear in the back of your SUV is plenty of parking. Die hard surfers get there early before work and before the crowd.
|Creepy Beach Art in the Morning|
Eventually you grab your board and head to the shoreline to do some quick stretching. You spirits rise as you see other surfers have already made their way to the water and are riding some of the best waves you are likely to experience all day.
There is almost no use going into the ocean slowly and suffering your way into the abyss. Why put yourself in that torture as the cold water first hits your feet and makes a "eye opening" way up your leg with each step? I say it is much better to just walk like the terminator out there and dive into the the first big wave. Take it like a "man" and get in there (the women surfers have no problem just jumping in😃. )!